Retinoids are derived from vitamin A and considered the gold standard in anti-aging technology. They boost collagen production and increase skin cell turnover rate to treat lines and wrinkles, discolorations and acne.
There are two types of retinoid: prescription retinoids (higher concentration and more potent) and over-the-counter (OTC) retinols. Prescription retinoids should only be used on your doctor’s advice. Dermatologists recommend starting slowly, applying a pea-sized amount of retinoid every second or third night to help your skin adjust to this powerful ingredient.
Alternatively, use an OTC cream, gel or serum containing retinol. This non-prescription version works gradually and gently, but is still effective in rejuvenating skin. The new-generation retinoids are kinder and gentler as they contain hydrators and skin softeners. Retinols are safe and have few side-effects.
You can begin using retinol-based products as part of your evening regimen as early as age 20.
Retinols should be used at night, when skin cells are being renewed. For daytime use, always apply sunscreen with a high SPF because retinols increase sun sensitivity.
Peptides are small-chain amino acids – building blocks of protein – joined together by peptide bonds. They can be dipeptides, tripeptides or polypeptides. Cosmetics companies use peptides to help diminish fine lines and wrinkles and to stimulate skin regeneration. The most well-known peptides in cosmetic formulations are copper peptides, hexapeptide-3 and pentapeptides.
Phloretin is normally found in apples and is effective in fighting wrinkles and getting rid of hyper-pigmentation and liver spots. Its action is even stronger when used together with vitamin C and ferrulic acid.
Alpha lipoic acid, a potent antioxidant, helps regenerate skin and fights oxidative stress due to the harmful action of free radicals. It also helps improve the action of other anti-aging vitamins, eg, vitamin C, coenzyme Q10 and glutathione.
Niacinamide is naturally derived from vitamin B3 and helps repair cells in the body. It is also beneficial in fighting skin blemishes, acne, hyper-pigmentation, age spots and wrinkles.